Canon LP-E4 Battery Pack
Symptoms
Outside it looks completely normal, no sign of trouble. Without any warning the battery pack had no life. Nothing in the camera and no lights when placed on the charger. First time ever, the LP-E4 was lifeless. I confirmed that charger was fine with other LP-E4 battery packs.
Disassemble
it was then I decided that there was little to lose. I was time to open up the pack to see what was inside.
Step 1. remove the latch
four screws removes the latch. This latch has the weather-proofing rubber inserted.


Step 2. remove the plate
another four screws removes the plate. I saved these tiny screws in a box so that they did not go missing during the project.
Step 3. split the case
for this step I used a wood chisel to twist the two halves of the case apart. be brave! it will separate.
Step 4. remove the cells and circuit
there was a sticky tape holding the cell in the case.
Diagnose
The volt meter told the story quickly. Just measuring the voltage across each of the three cells. In my case one of the three cells was very near zero volts. The other two were close to 4 Volts and I considered them to be in good order. I assumed the circuit board was fine.
Replacement Cell
In an online forum I learned that the three cells are type: 18650. http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1345833
In my city(Toronto, Ontario, Canada) there is a BatteriesExpert store that had an 18650 3.7Volt 3,000mA $12. the mA rating is important to be at least 2,300mA (the capacity rating) same as the battery packs is rated. This one is 3,000mA Larger will be fine(I assume).
Remove the Defective Cell
each of the cells are spot welded into the original set of three. I used pliers, twisted and ripped the metal strips from the battery trying to maintain the metal. These strips are important for the next install step.
Install New Cell
I ripped all of the red wrapper off the new cell. This model also had extra parts on each of the new cell and I stripped these off of both ends. Leaving a cell(blue) with metal leads on each end.
Test
Before even soldering and before gluing the case back together I used jumpers to connect the new cell. Now the Final moment, big TEST. I placed it on the charger. Tada! Lights and it behaved normally and completed the charge cycle.
Reassemble
Press the cells into the case. Close the case back together and glue the sides together.
Caution: the battery pack fits into the camera snuggly, smooth off rough edges and extra glue so that the size of the pack does not increase.
Complete
Reattach the plate with four screws. Reattach the latch with four screws.
Roy



















Hi
Since you have disassembled the battery pack, do you know which pins are the positive and negative poles? I want to check the battery voltage.
Thanks
It is not that simple. Inside the pack there is a circuit board and the batteries connect to that board. The cells do not connect to the external connector. I was not able to measure outside. I doubt you can measure the cell voltage without cracking open the pack.
And so I cracked it open. From inside measuring each of the three cell voltage is quite straightforward.
Thanks for the reply. Since my battery is apparently dead, I’ll try to open it and check the cells themselves.
Thank you. I have replaced the cells.The batteries are just US$6 for one pair in Hong Kong
Thank you very much! I have replaced 2 of the 18650 cells inside my LP E4. One pair of UltraFire 18650 is just US$6 in Hong Kong!
Glad that it worked for you.
Did you solder the batteries back in at the circuit board side? I’ve got 2 dead batteries and will replace all 3 for peace of mind. Thanks!
Hi Forcev4 the short answer is Yes. There are leads coming from the circuit board. I reattached the new battery to those leads.
I appreciate the logic to replace all three, while the patient is open on the table.
Thanks for the speedy reply. I didn’t mean the soldered 2 wires that extend along the batteries. I meant the end nearest the circuit board. They were spot welded I guess you could say. It appears that there would be enough pressure to keep everything connected and snug once the pack is reassembled but I wanted to be sure. My apologies if I wasn’t clear.
Oh I get your point about the tight end at the Circuit board.. I would not reassemble with a pressure connection and fingers crossed. I recommend solder both of the ends somehow. Even if that means adding another piece of wire to make the connection.
hail roy reddy!
I know that this is a really old article, but for those looking to do this now, only use genuine Sony, Panasonic, LG or Samsung 18650 batteries. Check out this article on good and bad batteries: https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesRidiculousRatings%20UK.html
For anything battery and charger related, lygte-info.dk is my go-to site.